July 2 and August 16
Siena�s Piazza del Campo is famous for its picturesque beauty, her striking black and white Duomo, and the Torre del Mangia with its dizzying square spiral staircase. Nestled in the rolling Tuscans hills, Siena has a character of her own, built up from centuries of tradition and culture.But this well-preserved medieval town is not just an outdoor museum, or a testament to Siena�s importance in the history of Italy. Siena is also renowned for il Palio, which takes place twice a year during summer, on July 2 and August 16.
Il Palio is a horse race. A bare-back horse race. Where centuries of neighbourhood rivalry comes to its annual climatic peak – in the Piazza del Campo. Racers guide their horses around a circular dirt track, in a dizzying average of 90 seconds. A spectacular display of macho bravado and history you might say. But hang on, it�s much more then just a horse race. Really.
The festival is grounded in centuries of tradition, and has been running since the 17th Century. Once, all 42 contrade (neighbourhoods) ran in the race, and it was, and perhaps still is, the embodiment of competitive divisions between Siena�s contrade. Each of Siena�s contrade represents a tightly-knight community, with their own festivals and celebrations, traditions, and inside gossip…
Today, there may only be 17 contrade, but the rivalry and sense of community is just as strong. At the end of Il Palio, winners still gloat and celebrate for weeks, and losers will commiserate for years to come. The display of the prize � the Palio, a decorative silk banner which bears the image of the Virgin Mary � continues to be a much contested issue among the Senese. And the reason for the madness on bareback.
Curious? It�s on again soon� Make sure you book ahead for accommodation if you�re thinking of heading to Siena, and get there early to mark a space in the piazza. You won�t even miss the medieval pageantry and flag waving spectacle in the race lead-up! If you miss the first race in July, don�t worry, there�s always August 16!
Getting there: Siena is located in Tuscany, between Rome and Florence. To get there, there are train services (usually involving a change of trains at Empoli Station) or direct bus services from most principal destinations in the area. The closest airport is at Pisa.
